Need M4 Painting Tips
Need M4 Painting Tips
I've got a pretty stock Rock River M4 with an ACOG and a bipod. I want to paint it to match the pine scrub in my are (FT Bragg) but I have never painted a weapon before. I know some of you out there are ninjas at this stuff so I thought I'd ask here first. I'd appreciate any tips on prep, color schemes, etc. before I get after it with a rattle can.
HHC 2/75 (1998- 2000)
Duty a mountain; Death a feather.
One of these days I'll start off slow...
Duty a mountain; Death a feather.
One of these days I'll start off slow...
- Flesh Thorn
- Ranger
- Posts: 5596
- Joined: March 5th, 2003, 2:12 pm
What paint are you planning on using ? I have been looking at DuaraCoat for refinishing a couple of my firearms.
A Co. 3/75 Ranger Regt. HQ Section Dec 85-June 86.
HSC USAITC June 86-April 88
NAVSEA, 2014 to Present
Psalm 144:1 A Psalm of David. Blessed be the LORD my strength, which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight:
HSC USAITC June 86-April 88
NAVSEA, 2014 to Present
Psalm 144:1 A Psalm of David. Blessed be the LORD my strength, which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight:
dura coat seems to be one of the standards, but I think some one here, maybe not, said that Rustolium sticks better.
A Co & HHC 3/75 '93-'98.
RS 10-94.
200 meters of green shit next to a river in the desert does not qualify as a "Crescent of Fertility" -me
"The meek shall inherit the earth, one meter wide and two meters long" -Lazarus Long
RS 10-94.
200 meters of green shit next to a river in the desert does not qualify as a "Crescent of Fertility" -me
"The meek shall inherit the earth, one meter wide and two meters long" -Lazarus Long
Thanks BB... I was gonna link my thread there, but you beat me to it.
Here's the deal... I like the Krylon "rattle can" cammo paint. It's cheap, readily available and it is FLAT! In other words, it does not reflect light.
Just make sure you tape off anything you don't want sprayed... then make sure it is VERY clean. Gun scrubber, or the likes is a good thing to spray it down with... then go over it with good old rubbing alcohol.
Let it dry, then shoot it with a good primer if you want. Next, lay down your base coat... several LIGHT coats are always better than a few heavy coats. Let it dry to a "tack" feel, then spray it again.
Pick some local vegetation and "mist" your contrast color while holding the vegetation close to the rifle. Take your time, and get creative.
Small netting, like a laundry bag, makes a neat cammo "Web" pattern. Or, you can cut out some stencils with an X-acto knife like I did, using a large "mannilla" envelope...
don't hold the stencils too closely to the rifle, or else you will get sharp edges to the color.
Cammo is all about breaking up the outline of the rifle. I also like that you can change it quickly to your changing surroundings.
Hope that helps...
Darren
Here's the deal... I like the Krylon "rattle can" cammo paint. It's cheap, readily available and it is FLAT! In other words, it does not reflect light.
Just make sure you tape off anything you don't want sprayed... then make sure it is VERY clean. Gun scrubber, or the likes is a good thing to spray it down with... then go over it with good old rubbing alcohol.
Let it dry, then shoot it with a good primer if you want. Next, lay down your base coat... several LIGHT coats are always better than a few heavy coats. Let it dry to a "tack" feel, then spray it again.
Pick some local vegetation and "mist" your contrast color while holding the vegetation close to the rifle. Take your time, and get creative.
Small netting, like a laundry bag, makes a neat cammo "Web" pattern. Or, you can cut out some stencils with an X-acto knife like I did, using a large "mannilla" envelope...
don't hold the stencils too closely to the rifle, or else you will get sharp edges to the color.
Cammo is all about breaking up the outline of the rifle. I also like that you can change it quickly to your changing surroundings.
Hope that helps...
Darren
RS 08-91
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
- Creeping Death
- Ranger
- Posts: 2119
- Joined: April 14th, 2003, 10:11 am
It's all different schools of thought, Bro. I adhere to the school that says pretty camo doesn't work.
Go to Wally world and buy the flat Krylon. OD, Tan, and Brown. Forget the black.
Degrease the weapon. I like Acetone, but just make sure the thing is clean and dry, to include your fingerprints.
Mask off the areas needed to prevent the paint from getting on areas where you don't want paint, like the muzzle, scope turrets, trigger housing, etc.
Apply your base coat with the lightest color in your color scheme, and then work lightest to darkest in color. Use stencils if you like. I usually just free hand it so that it comes out nice and ugly with no hard lines that stand out.
if you paint 'em like me, they won't be pretty, but the camo will work well.
This pic was taken from less than 10ft.
Go to Wally world and buy the flat Krylon. OD, Tan, and Brown. Forget the black.
Degrease the weapon. I like Acetone, but just make sure the thing is clean and dry, to include your fingerprints.
Mask off the areas needed to prevent the paint from getting on areas where you don't want paint, like the muzzle, scope turrets, trigger housing, etc.
Apply your base coat with the lightest color in your color scheme, and then work lightest to darkest in color. Use stencils if you like. I usually just free hand it so that it comes out nice and ugly with no hard lines that stand out.
if you paint 'em like me, they won't be pretty, but the camo will work well.
This pic was taken from less than 10ft.
A Co 1/75 '94-'97
Class 5-96
Class 5-96